Archive for January, 2005

January 1, 2005

Shroud Repair

Shroud Repair Contribution and Photos by Mike Fahle


These two photos show the rivet that came out of my shroud chainplate or tang where it is attached to the hull and what I did to reattach it. I used a drill, a thread tap, and a 5/8″ bolt to replace the 1/4″ rivet that pulled out, apparently because it was not long enough to bulge out of the other side of the aluminum plate that is on the inside of the fiberglass hull.

 

All owners could check for similar problems before the chainplate/tang pulls out and the rig falls down. This is an easy, inexpensive way to fix it if they find a problem before serious injury or damage occurs.

A rig fell down because one of the bridle bolts came out of the top of the bow. Another had a bolt that was too short to reach the (overly) recessed aluminum plate on one of his hulls and had to replace it with a longer bolt. Everyone should check this latter problem on their boat as well. This is an excellent place to apply some Loctite for bolts (removable with tools) or equivalent after they are sure the bolts are long enough to make good thread contact.

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January 1, 2005

Rudder Improvements

Contribution and Photos by Dave Fort

Problem 1
Description: Rudders don’t kick up – even if spring tension is loose or even removed.

Cause: The black cam that retains the stainless bar in the locked position does not rotate back far enough to allow the bar to come out. The cam binds on the casting.

Other Symptoms: back bottom corner of black cam has chips out of it.

Solution: grind out casting in region shown in this . I also lubed everything and also wrapped the adjusting screw with many layers of teflon tape to make it more reluctant to turn.

Another Solution: On one of my kick up mechanisms, there is enough space surrounding the spring that the spring can get pushed sideways by the corner of the cam rather than depressed. This causes the cam to bind. I don’t know if it binds soon enough to cause a problem, but since it wouldn’t open as far as the other 3 rudders, i shaved the corner off the cam, and that seems to fix it. Note also that this problem seemed to only manifest when spring tension is very light. Cranking in the adjusting screw seems to keep the spring positioned better.

You can see if your rudder is having this problem by manually depressing the black plastic cam and look in the trailing edge to see what is happening with the spring. There was also a click sound when the spring snapped from under the cam to in front of it.

In any case, here is the old and new outline of the rudder cam:

Problem 2

Description: Gouging top of rudder head as in this

Cause: Many of the castings (3 out of 4 in my case) have a protrusion, which is probably not supposed to be there, which pokes into the top of the rudder if the blade comes up too high.

Solution: This solution comes from Joe Tracy. File or hacksaw off the protrusion as shown in this . On some of the castings, you can file far enough so that the 2 castings hit each other before the casting bites a chunk out of the rudder, but on some of my castings i couldn’t quite go that far. In any case, removing the pointy part will spread the force over a larger area, which will prevent taking a bite out unless you whack it really hard. If you are still paranoid, glue some rubber bumpers in there somehow (selection of appropriate adhesive and bumper left to the reader).