Archive for January, 2002

January 1, 2002

Continuous Halyard

There are some big, really big advantages to running a continuous halyard. You will have zero deck clutter and when you pop the halyard, the head pulling from the mast will pull the retrieval line and suck the spinnaker up to the end of the pole… a few more tugs and it is in the bag.

  1. Use Marlow 3/16 or equivalent stiff, light line. This is the same as the I20. Purchase 70 feet, don’t short yourself here.
  2. Attach a small bullet block to a 18 inch piece of the 3/16 above. Feed through the rear of the tramp to the eye-strap on for the traveler. est to lay the boat on its side for the first try at this.
  3. Temporarily tie one end of halyard to tip of snuffer; feed through block at top of mast; down the mast and through the turning block and cleat; back to the rear beam bullet block; forward and into back grommet of snuffer bag; out the front and through the lower patch webbing (do not tie); up to the top patch webbing and tie with bowline.
  4. Tie tack to tack line on snuffer end.
  5. Attach halyard from top of mast to head.
  6. Hoist spinnaker.
  7. Release halyard and pull retrieval end of halyard until spinnaker is completely in sock.
  8. Adjust halyard length (without cutting) until you have a workable length for your preference. Sail several times in varying wind conditions before you actually cut the final length.
January 1, 2002

4.3 Cord List

January 1, 2002

Standard Rigging

Standard Rigging/Required Additions

First, lay out all parts on hard surface floor and check against printed inventory. Assembly requires 3-4 people. Tools needed: 9/16″ and 1/2″ socket wrenches, Small flat head screwdriver, sharp knife, cat-key or pliers, silicone spray, riggers tape.

Important: Before or after installation, tape every thimble on the wire rigging with riggers tape (available from West Marine). Each sleeve has wire ends protruding and are very sharp. Failure to do so will almost guarantee a torn spinnaker on the first sail.

Hull /Tramp/Beams

  1. Spray Sail-Kote or Silicone lubricant into front beam slot and metal tracks down each inside hull.
  2. Slide forward edge of trampoline into front beam slot. Filing the entry hole will make this easier. Make sure the yellow polypro bolt rope does not get pulled out of the tramp.
  3. There are 4 short hull bolts and 4 long. The short (3/8 x 4 1/2″) are the front, long (3/8 x 5″) are the rear. On each bolt place the cupped washer with “cup” facing upward. On the inner rear bolt, place the 2 inch aluminum block, long edge facing outward. On the outer rear bolts, place the 1 inch aluminum block. Insert beam caps.
  4. Bolt front and rear beam to starboard hull.
  5. Slide traveler onto rear beam with cleat facing forward. Make sure not to drop the nylon “bearings”.
  6. Bolt rear beam to port hull, do not attach front beam yet.
  7. With one person on each track and one feeding tramp from front, slide tramp bolt rope into track on each hull. Keep tramp even on each side to make it easier.
  8. With hip against port hull in front of front beam, push against the mast base until holes line up. Insert front port beam bolts.
  9. Insert 1/2 inch bar into rear tramp. Pushing toward the front of the tramp in the slot will allow easy entry.
  10. Lace tramp to rear beam.
  11. Re-check tightness on each bolt.
  12. Put black rubber caps on each bolt.
  13. Attach front cross-bar and bridles using the bolt (comes threaded in hull, 1/2″ socket). The “bump” on the crossbar ends faces down. Some outward pressure on the hulls may be necessary to line up bolts.


The spinnaker pole did not come with bridle wires to secure the front of the pole (tip of the snuffer). You can make a stainless wire set from West Marine for $24. To make a set for yourself follow these directions. You could also use line in place of stainless wire.

  1. Parts needed:
    (4) Thimble-1/8 SS part 126763 price 1.49 each
    (4) Sleeve-3/32 part 115063 price .31 each
    11.3 feet Wire-SS 3/32 7×19 part 119214 .59/ft.
    (2) Shackle-Bow STD 5/32 part 179721 $4.99 each
  2. Measure 5’5″ or 65 inches long from outside tip of thimble to outside tip of thimble. This measurement doesn’t have to be exact since you will be securing with the blue line through the end of the snuffer. They do need to be the same length.
  3. Secure each bridle to the loops bolted to the front of the bow using the bow shackle (where your forestay bridle is located). This way you can remove the bridle when not using the spinnaker. Attach the forward end of the bridles to the snuffer tip blue rope by feeding the bitter end through the two thimbles and cinching it tight, even a bit of prebend in the pole. This will prevent the pole from moving side to side and from coming off the post on the front beam.

The block at the top of the mast should be a swiveling block. Without a swivel, the halyard will tangle and limit your ability to take down the spinnaker. You have two options outlined below. The advantage of Option 2 is that you run less danger of damaging your mast and are not required to have a rivet gun. Option 1 is cheaper if you use existing block.

  1. Option 1: Drill out the rivets on the eye-strap from the mast, remove the block. Replace the eye-strap with rivets. Do not use steel rivets (use stainless or . Be sure to seal the rivets with silicone sealant to prevent mast leakage. Now either replace with a swivel block or attach existing block with a short high strength line. Price $2 to $12.
  2. Option 2: Using a hacksaw, cut thought the existing block and discard. Replace with a swivel block and shackle. Price $8 to $12.

To attach spinnaker sheets, feed sheet through blocks on rear beam. Make sure arrows on blocks are facing inboard (update… this was backwards in previous revisions). Sheets should be outside of everything… trapeze wires, side stays, and in front of forestay. Insert sheets into clew of spinnaker from opposite sides and tie figure 8 knots (stopper knots). Tying a bowline or other knot puts more weight on the clew of the spinnaker and will hinder light-air performance.

Main Halyard / Main Sheet

There is a small set screw on the side of your mainsheet lower block (the one with the cam cleat). Loosen this screw and raise the angle of the cam cleat to approximately 15-20 degrees above horizontal. Re-tighten the screw. This will allow easier uncleating of the mainsheet under load.

Harken Problem Notice: Many have tried to adjust the cleat angle on the mainsheet block but found either the screw
backed-out OK and would not tighten or the screw would not back out at all. Call Harken, (262) 691-3320 and explain what happened and asked for a replacement. All reps should now be aware of this by now. Anne Hartleip, (pictured in row two, page 4 of the 2001 Harken catalog) handles the Mystere account and was the first to be aware of this problem. Replacement block (#2648 – page 12) (link to harken catalog part).